In the grand Manor
Above: The dining room at Eastwell Manor, Kent (Kent Life Magazine)
Above: Eastwell Manor's chef, Neil Wiggins (Kent Life Magazine)
Some establishments have an inbuilt advantage when it comes to grand entrances, and Eastwell Manor ranks as one of the finest examples in Kent. As you sweep up that long and winding drive to the Jacobean-style mansion at the top, with its wonderful views across manicured gardens to the North Downs, expectations for a pretty special experience are already high.
Fortunately, The Manor restaurant, which boats two AA Rosettes under Ashford-born chef Neil Wiggins, lives up to expectations, managing to be both formal and intimate, with its darkwood panelling, massive stone fireplace, beams and mullioned windows – there’s even a resident pianist.
A brilliant summer's day
And on our visit on a brilliant summer’s weekday, the room was reassuringly full of eager lunchtime diners, many of them staunch regulars. So what’s the secret? Quality of food and service, linked to a great setting, sum up Eastwell’s enduring appeal, explains chief executive, Neil Beech.
As a hotel, it has many roles, including a venue for conferences and weddings, but it is always high on the list of ‘destination’ places to come for a celebration. What comes as a surprise, however, is to find how reasonably priced a meal is here: you can’t quibble at £12 for a two-course lunch, especially in this setting, so does Eastwell Manor have to be kept for ‘Sunday best?’
It was time to put the theory to the test, but not before completely revising all my choices following a pep talk from Neil. “You’ve got to try the fresh peas with pea mousse,” he insists – which immediately meant I was eating from the set menu, leaving my dining chum, The Hungry One, who hates peas with a passion, to graze the à la carte with abandon.
Served with Parma ham dressed with lemon vinaigrette, this was pure summer on a plate
I think even these green fellas might have changed THO’s mind, however. Served with Parma ham dressed with lemon vinaigrette, this was pure summer on a plate: light, fresh and bursting with seasonal flavour.
THO, however, was extremely happy with his starter of “meltingly tender” warm salad of quail, though I suspect it was a mere interruption to the Sussex red beef that was to follow, fresh from Wickens butchers in nearby Winchelsea.
Served with a curious green crust that turned out to be watercress and not the dreaded pea, this was a solid, hearty lunchtime choice that was demolished with much satisfaction.
I was equally content with my fillet of sea bream, courtesy of Greggs of Hythe, and accompanied by a few of my favourite things – artichokes, scallops and pesto: an imaginative and successful marriage.
Sweet temptation
Desserts are more-ish – we tried the locally grown raspberries combined with mascarpone ice cream (me) and with crème bruleee (THO)
Don’t be daunted by the size of the wine list and make sure you get advice on what will work best with your food - we spoke to Hungarian wine buyer Orsolya Saghi, who is moving away from the French domination on the list and working closely with independent wine merchant, Anthony Byrne to create a really individual list.
It may seem posh, but absolutely everyone here just wants you to have a really wonderful time – and it’s impossible not to love the place. Just a shame they can’t use the gardens more for al fresco dining when the sun does decide to shine.
Eastwell Manor
Eastwell Park, Boughton Lees
Ashford TN25 4HR
Tel: 01233 213000
Email: enquiries@eastwellmanor.co.uk
Typical prices
Lunch: £12 for two courses, £18 for three
Dinner: £37.50 per person set menu